Sustainability and Circular Economy in the Cosmetic industry: a life cycle thinking perspective to support companies’ transition

Circular Economy paradigm is receiving increasing attention for addressing sustainable development in various industrial sectors. Cosmetic industry is particularly involved in the transition towards sustainability due to the environmental, economic, and social concerns that affect the sector. In this context, a lack of studies and critical reviews as well as empirical studies explicitly focusing on circular economy in the cosmetic industry is highlighted. Particularly, framework or guidelines for the assessment and communication of circular economy in the sector are still missing. Consequently, the present thesis aims to provide support for cosmetic companies implementing circular practices to assess and communicate the circular and sustainable value generated. To achieve this aim, the thesis is structured in six chapters. Chapter 1 introduces the background and general context of the thesis, provides a description of the problem the research seeks to address, and outlines the research questions and approach. It also describes the thesis structure. Chapter 2 explores the academic explicit use of the circular economy terms and principles in the context of the cosmetic industry, also considering its link with sustainability and its dimensions. Chapter 3 presents an empirical analysis of circular economy awareness, implementation, assessment, and communication among a selected sample of Italian cosmetic companies. Chapter 4 discusses a case-study analysis on the environmental assessment at cosmetic product level, focusing on a solar cream as well as on alternative UV filters substances applying a circular economy perspective. Chapter 5 proposes a conceptual and operational framework intended to guide cosmetic companies in assessing and communicating the implemented circular practices, considering their value both in terms of circularity and sustainability. Finally, Chapter 6 discusses the key findings of the research presented in chapters 2, 3, 4 and 5 that, overall, provide many insights on circular economy implementation, assessment, and communication at micro (i.e. product) and meso (i.e. company) levels in the cosmetic sector. Firstly, results highlight an increasing and interdisciplinary interest in circular economy. Various circular practices are proposed for different areas of implementation, also showing a strong connection with sustainability and specifically with environmental sustainability. Secondly, despite an increasing attention to circularity is showed among companies of the sector, some difficulties for its implementation still emerge. Thirdly, some methodological issues are highlighted in the assessment of circularity and sustainability of cosmetic products. Finally, the conceptual and operational framework represents a first attempt to guide companies of the sector in assessing and communicating the circular and sustainable value generated with the implemented practices. Despite the framework is still under development, it has been tested with a pilot case-study, allowing to ensure its applicability and to identify potential areas for future improvements. Following that, the present thesis provides insights on implications and recommendations, also identifying next steps to foster future research and the sustainable and circular transition in the cosmetic industry.