Study, preparation and evaluation of eco-sustainable bioactive ingredients for potential applications in the dermocosmetic field

In response to the growing demand for sustainability in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields, this research explores the development and potential of eco-friendly bioactive ingredients obtained from renewable sources and agri-food waste, following the principles of green chemistry and the circular economy. The multidisciplinary studies have considered different complex botanical matrices: Laurus nobilis L., Fraxinus ornus L. (manna), Beta vulgaris var. rubra, olive mill wastewater (OMW), Paeonia lactiflora Pall., and Tocosh fermented potato flour. For Laurus nobilis, microwave-assisted extraction using Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NADES) yielded a ready-to-use multifunctional ingredient with high Phenolic Content (TPC), and Radical Scavenging Activity (RSA), and a broad-spectrum antimicrobial efficacy with minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) ranging from 3.8 to 7.5 mg/mL. Additionally, the ingredient has demonstrated effective anti-acne properties and has been patented by a company. Manna exudate showed wound-healing, anti-elastase, and skin-lightening properties; its incorporation into a pectin hydrogel ensured suitable physiological pH values (5.50-6.80), an appropriate rheological behavior and RSA stability (around 10%). An innovative in situ microwave process applied to B. vulgaris waste (stalks) allowed the simultaneous NADES formation and matrix extraction with a good recovery of the phenolic compounds corresponding in a meaningful antioxidant activity (53% RSA). The NADES systems enhanced betacyanin stability up to 3 months. Purified OMW fractions exhibited good TPC values (1.5-15 g gallic acid equivalents per liter, GAE/L), RSA range of 10-80% and antimicrobial activity against multidrug-resistant strains (MIC 8-16 mg/mL). P. lactiflora NADES-based extracts from fresh petals, as ready-to-use multifunctional ingredients showed a high TPC values (34.4 mg GAE/g), strong RSA (87.5%), and peculiar antimicrobial properties. Low MICs (ranging from 0.9-14.5 mg/mL on Staphylococcus spp. to 28.8-57.8 mg/mL on Enterococcus spp.) and significant antibiofilm properties were disclosed when using the betaine/glycerol-solvent. Moreover, the eutectic system developed has been demonstrated to facilitate the preservation of the properties up to nine months. Tocosh revealed its potential as a gelling agent (85.3% water-binding capacity) comparable to potato starch. The matrix was evaluated in terms of antioxidant activity and TPC, after solvent extraction (80% EtOH, 30 min, 75°C) yielding 37.90 mg GAE/g and 42.52% RSA. GC-MS studies have clarified the origin of the unpleasant odour caused by carboxylic acids; this drawback has been overcome by Fischer esterification. These results validate a sustainable upcycling model to obtaining high-added value, stable, and safe bioactive ingredients.